Shanteniketan

Friday I came into work expecting to go on a field study annnd instead got a message saying the doctors were too busy and had to reschedule. I was so upset I almost started to cry. When I asked the head doctor the day before if I could stay in the clinic longer, he was very vague and said he didn’t know. Then when I asked what time we should meet in the morning, again he was very illusive. I think I blew it. Somehow. I treated myself by taking myself out for lunch. Michael and I are going to Rajasthan this Saturday for a week! We’ve barely planned at all, except for my request to spend some time in the desert. I’m ridiculously excited. Saturday Michael, Moumita, Sreerupa, and two new people from the Immunology department Tonmoi (a man) and Kritika (a woman) boarded a train to Shanteniketan to see the University Tagore created. The train flew by the country and we sat 3 in a row pressed against the windy window. 

 Kritika and Tonmoi were hilarious, very modern and down to earth. They took turns teaching us bad words in Bengali. The train was a circus of entertainment, devastation food and drink. Men passed with huge boiling kettles of milk with the rhythmic calling “coffee, cha, cha, cha, coffee, coffee, cha, cha, cha, coffee!” Men sold towels, and little snacks they concocted in cup and then poured into newspaper for you to eat. Men played music for money and danced. I liked my group. We tasted and listened to everything. Then there were the children. Who sang and then put their hand on my knee and held out their hand “please ma’am please” they were barely audible and very weepy. 

 But it was Michael who they really hounded. If you looked around after giving money, they were busy fighting with each other, laughing and counting the money. They all deserve Oscars. The hermaphrodites came up to your seats and clapped their hands really loud. I was warned of them earlier, if you don’t give them money they can get violent. But no one moved me like the blind. I gave them all money every time. The hotel was beautiful and pink. There were two people per room, but most of the time everyone was in mine and Moumita’s room. We had a quick Bengali lunch of Dal, vegetables, chicken and rice. Which I am so over. And then got into our bike rickshaws we rented for the day and drove to a marketplace. 

 Unlike Kolkata shopping, this was hassle free and completely gorgeous and enjoyable. Musicians and shopkeepers spread out on blankets in a huge field. We ate ice cream as we listened to the tingling music of this one band. When he hit this one note—damn. I felt it in my soul. Needless to say, I bought a cd. All of the shop owners were from Shanteniketan and made all of their items. I’m such a sucker for authenticity and a story. We moved beyond the blankets and explored a huge farmland expanse. I needed it. Kolkata drives me a little crazy. We stood under a tree and screamed at the top our lungs. 

We chased ducks and jumped streams careful not to land in the cow patties. We took the rickshaws deeper into the country and stopped at a mud hut village. Men cutting bamboo, women pumping well water, children darting in and out of their mud huts. 

Everyone is guarded until you smile, then you are surrounded by smiles. We got back to the hotel and had mixed fried rice and mutton for dinner. So full and tired we all lounged/crowded onto my bed and watched Bengali tv. I had promised Tanmoi I would show them all a dance sometime during the weekend—thinking he and everyone else would forget. But they didn’t and demanded a dance. “Just make up something in your head to whatever music we put on.” Ok! I did a few numbers of belly dance, it was awkward, they loved it, and I demanded for other people to entertain the rest of us. Sreeerupa sang, Kritika did a traditional Indian dance and Michael Beat Boxed. The rest of the night I would catch little conservative Moumita trying to Beat Box with a completely concentrated face. At night, Moumita and I lay on our pillows and talked about her “ideal” man. I highly recommended the doctor from the Field Study. Sunday/Monday In the morning, (after they prayed at a Kali temple we passed) we took a car to see the University Tagore created. It was a vast campus with tons of banyon trees and many of its classes held outside. The students ranged from pre-school to PHD and all wore a yellow garb. Everyone made fun of me but I read Gitanjali the entire time to get into it. Anyway it worked, and I felt the magic of his words translate to his school and wanted to give it all up and join them. But instead got on the train to come back home. On the Train ride home Kritkika and I talked about our boyfriends (the first woman I’ve seen with one!) We were right on the same page until she asked “so when are you going to two going to get married?” And BAM I was back in India. Shubrutu’s sister’s wedding is Tuesday so Moumita helped me buy (back in Kolkata) an incredibly gorgeous Saree to wear and a blouse to go with it. Today we got the blouse fitted and bought earrings to go with it. We went to the Ladies Parlour downstairs (from my apartment) and had our eyebrows threaded and nails painted for 50 cents. The Ladies Parlor consisted of two chairs and beauticians who would do whatever you wanted. I made sure to tell Moumtia to tell them I live just upstairs. I’m sure I’ll be seeing them again.